Monday, January 3, 2011
Pictures from AUKLAND and - THE CASE OF THE MISSING BAGS
December 31, 2010: TUAKAU, New Zealand - NY EVE
Tuakau, New Zealand - Dec 31, 2010 - I've had a streak of good luck lately as New Zealander's have stepped up and adopted me for the night.
In Hamilton, Sue was bringing me coffee at the Garden Cafe in the Town Centre and we started chatting about the tour. Moments later her husband brought me a beautiful breakfast of scrambled eggs with chives, a side of buttered wheat toast and a couple wedges of tomato and avocado sprinkled with alfalfa sprouts. "You can stay at our home tonight," he said, setting the plate down in front of me.
In Huntly, while searching for a church I stopped a woman on the street; Shirley wracked her brain for the name of a local pastor and then invited me to her home so we could look up the number.
"If you're from Wisconsin, do you know of a city called Racine? I have a pen friend there, her name is Carol," she said. Shirley found her "pen friend" in a magazine and they had been corresponding for 40 years. Shirley turned me on to minister Dorreen and her husband John, and they took me in for the evening. John was a largely unrecognized authority on everything... too bad I had such a difficult time understanding him. Think Mush-mouth from Fat Albert and the Cosby kids and then throw in a New Zealand accent - and I'm being nice. I really concentrated hard when John spoke. I only caught myself daydreaming twice - once was about when Sizzler restaurants were popular and the other was when the Banana Splits were on TV.
John talked about his trip to Montana and his upcoming bicycle tour. He had a powerful memory, although highly inaccurate, according to his wife. John was so hospitable he even went so far as to grab his purple mountain bike and helmet and guide me out of town.
In Turakau I met Ruth outside the public library. We both complained a lot about the library being closed the next four days, then Ruth said I could stay the night at her place. Ruth's home was like an aviary; birds were in cages the size of a shed. Inside the garage there were several cages of Bourkes, canaries and an Indian Ringneck named Sweetie Pie. "I have geriatric chickens," said Ruth about the motley crew of aging birds. "I get a random egg here and there, but mostly they're living the Sabbath of their life in my backyard and loving it." Aside from the chickens there was an off-white budgie, a yellow Cockatiel and an Eastern Rosella, which looked like a bright red parrot.
There were fantail pigeons which opened the day with a morning-dove coo; and a pen full of white doves. "I let four of them go during my husband's funeral," said Ruth. "Three of them returned home the next day and the fourth didn't come back until my husband's ashes were turned over to me; that was four days after the service. "It was weird," said Ruth lowering her voice like she didn't want the gods to hear.
TIDBITS...
- Went to donate blood in New Zealand just to see how their system works. I never passed the iron test. It's nice to see both the US and Kiwi set-ups are broken. Also interesting, the New Zealand nurses didn't wear any gloves.
- Some trendy lingo in New Zealand includes: brilliant and lovely instead of nice, keen, heaps, cool (pronounced kuhl), the letter 'Z' is pronounced 'zed' , lollies are chocolates and a bicycle is referred to as a push bike.
- The other night while staying in at St. Andrew's Quality Inn and Suites I ate pineapple out of a can - mostly due to non-accompanied travel and impatience.
- Stopped at Candy Land on my way north out of Hamilton. The store was rather Hasbro but the staff was very Willy Wonka; they were all dressed in pink bib overalls. It was like putting a big farm girl in an Oompa Loompa. Queen Candyland: a bit scary with a full-on crown, pink painted cheeks and a decorative purple cape for picture taking. She was like something you'd see when you were high on mushrooms; at least that's what my friends said.
- Kiwis are quick to offer tea or coffee. Rare is "pressed coffee" offered; more often than not it's instant. The water is normally inferno hot.
- When you take a bus in New Zealand there's often a "comfort stop" because there's no bathroom on the bus. After three hours when everybody piles out I notice the attire is nothing but crop tops and low rise jeans. It is the holiday here in New Zealand but visually it's like a landscape of Joe the Plumber.
- Bicycled to the Waitakaruru Arboretum; it's New Zealand's largest outdoor sculpture gallery located on 42 acres in an old quarry. In 1991 John and Dorothy Wakeling started planting about 400 trees each year in an attempt to enhance the existing landscape. Dorothy, by the way, went to Beloit College in the 1970s.
- It's day 21 for Baby Jessica, the nickname I've given my lost luggage, and at the last public library/Internet stop I received word from Virgin Blue Airline that my luggage has arrived in Auckland. Although joyous, I'm highly skeptical. I will be in Auckland shortly and depart quickly after that. I told the airline to have a competent person sit on my luggage until I arrived to claim it in person. A friend of mine said my approach was as gentle as a punch in the face.
- Downtown Pukekohe and Donna Summer's "Hot Stuff" is playing on the public speakers followed by R.E.M.'s "Night Swimming." There's a kiosk at the end of King Street with a bit of history detailed in black-and-white photos. Pukekohe's first motor car arrived in 1911 and belonged to Mr. Berridge. The vehicle used to scare all the horses in the county, as well as children. The Council was called upon to do something, so they passed a resolution that the car be restricted to speeds of 10 m.p.h. A member of the Council sprung to his feet and said the restriction was ridiculous as a donkey could travel faster. The mileage was fixed at 15 m.p.h. The car could be heard from a mile away, which gave pedestrians a chance to take cover and those already mounted on horseback to get into the side streets. "I can tell you the ride through town created quite a hubbub," said Mr. James Pollock, 86, whose memoirs were tape recorded in 1962.
Thursday, December 30, 2010
December 29, 2010: Hamilton, New Zealand
White flower ring on native canoe from museum in Hamilton and a carving.
|
Hamilton, New Zealand - Dec. 29 - Slept in a jail cell in Hamilton last night.
It wasn't actually a jail cell - I've yet to accomplish that; it just felt like a jail cell - or an iPod.
There was a weather warning issued for Tuesday; rain the entire day with extremely strong winds. I was safe at the Rainbow Springs Backpackers Hostel in Taupo, but felt the need to push along.
Hopped a bus to Hamilton and found the Waikato Museum, which had a fantastic collection dedicated to the stories, art, history and culture of the Tainui community.
There were fabulous carvings and a life-size Tainui canoe complete with rings of white feathers.
By the time I left, I found a hostel for $29 for a single room. The guy who owned the facility tried to get the most use out of all his space and that's me being nice. I knew it would be interesting because the cubby-hole office was such a mess and he wasn't in it.
We climbed the narrow stairway - sideways; by the time we got to the top I thought we'd discover stalactites. The rooms were sectioned off into pods A and B; there was a shared bathroom. The shower was like climbing into a high school locker; washing up sounded like you were wrestling a bear in a beer can.
I had pod A and felt like Alice in Wonderland after eating a piece of cake. There was enough space to do the Hokey Pokey, so it would do for the night.
I'm not complaining, not much anyway.
I figured New Zealand was an adventure and this was part of my combo-platter of life.
NEW ZEALAND TRENDS...
New Zealand is stuck in the 80s, at least as far as music and movies are concerned.
I think I've seen about every Tom Cruise film ever made. Turn on the TV and it's Tom-Cruise-something flipping a bottle of booze or giving a Top Gun windmill high five..
I asked if he died and this was some sort of tribute to his work. Sorry to say but Nicole Kidman really settled there for a while, didn't she?
As far as music is concerned it's Annie Lennox and Eurythmics, Bon Jovi and Cory Hart is still sporting his sunglasses at night.
There are also CD deals in the paper; sale ads for 1980s CD's for only $14.99. Seriously, who doesn't have that music, and who wants it NOW?
Sunday, December 26, 2010
Sunday, December 26, 2010: Taihape, New Zealand
Taihape, New Zealand, Dec 26 - Happy Boxing Day; it's a New Zealand tradition much like Black Friday. HUGE after-Christmas sales, only I really haven't seen many shops open. Matter of fact, the sporting goods shop in Taihape kicked me out; my darn bike was to blame. Let me quote the store owner - "Out, out, out! Get that bike out of my shop!" I took that as a casual suggestion; I tried to explain - briefly... and the second time he was even MORE loud and clear. Think drill sergeant.
That's too bad because I was going to buy a sh**load of stuff.
Since getting kicked out of the Catholic church on Christmas day, and now this, I don't think New Zealander's are too keen on the spirit of the holiday.
~~~
Bicycled 75 kilometers from Marton to Taihape today and it was tough, everybody said so. Lot of hills, it was overcast and chilly.
Pulled into Taihape around 2:30 p.m. and tanked my plans to make it another 30 kilometers up the road to Waiouru. I actually thought Taihape was only 48 miles; for some reason I'm having trouble reading my book map. The city I want is always located on the NEXT page, but it is never the next page, it's always, like, three pages away and I need to look in the reference to figure it out.
Found a backpacker's hostel rather quickly; The Gretna. I must be tired, I didn't even try to dicker when the clerk said one night was $30.
I searched out a laundry with some urgency; I pinned my ripe clothes as the source of my nausea. Returning to backpacker's headquarters I found my room and its only window opened directly across from the tavern on the first floor. There's a guy in there that laughs like Dracula. He seems to be having a super time.
My room is quaint; not the historical feel like HotelClub from last night - just convenient, with charming character.
At least that's what I call it.
The bed is less than sturdy - think hammock. I'm glad there's somewhat of a siderail, it only took me three elephant heaves to get out of the bed hole the second time.
The hallway smells like we're right above the greasy kitchen exhaust and there's a crack in the seam of the old wooden door of the communal bathroom. I suppose it's convenient, that way I know if somebody's in there or not, but the door doesn't close all the way anyway..... so there's that.
I found my only window is also directly across from the tavern jukebox. This evening's clientèle of dedicated drinkers prefers a mixed tape of Don Ho and old country with a lot of warbling crooners.
An update, Dracula laugh has a wife - they must have been separated at birth and then found each other again. It's offensive in a joyous way.
I'm so tired nothing really bothers me at this point; but note I can still hear them with my fingers shoved in my ears.
One other bathroom note, you're squatting at an angle. At first I thought it was just fatigue, but there's a definite slant to this operation and a bit of a Wallenda factor. Like sitting on one of your dad's old lawn chairs he should have gotten rid of a long time ago. There's a convenient wall for stability, that definitely reduces fear of falling off the perch. And maybe I was too quick to judge the crack in the door - it could be for safety purposes.
Sometimes I wonder why nobody wants to come on these trips with me.
December 26, 2010 - Picture Pages - New Zealand
HotelClub in Marton |
Windy day - children were reportedly being blown away from parents on this day |
Dec. 23, Paekakariki, NEW ZEALAND

Dec. 23, Paekakariki, NEW ZEALAND - Flew from Christchurch on the south island to Wellington on the north island today.
Prior to my flight I ran into Nancy, a senior attendant from Air New Zealand. Originally from the midwest, Nancy gravitated to California and made the leap to New Zealand more than 10 years ago.
She also let me sleep in a secluded corner of the airport and flagged the rest of the staff not to bother me. With three hours wait of my departure, Nancy wrote me a pass to the Koru Club Lounge - it's the luxury box of the airport. A hot breakfast bar with Akaroa smoked salmon and capers, sun-roasted tomatoes, raisin wheat toast, homemade raspberry jam, and a series of refrigerators held a vista of juices and beers. Free Internet, morning paper and Amanda the barrista could whip up any five-adjective coffee.
JUSTICE OF THE PEACE...
Prior to leaving Christchurch I was notified by the airline I'd have to file a claim on my luggage. I'd need to print the form off the computer and fax in the final copy. (Good thing I'm carrying my office on the back of my bike - hardee-har-har....) Another small thing, the paperwork has to be notarized by a Justice of the Peace.
I never thought my first search for a Justice of the Peace would be so he could autograph my report card on missing luggage. I managed to locate the Justice in the Yellow Pages.
MARGARET...
Landing in Wellington, I took off directly north; the coastal city reminded me of Seattle with fishing boats and shops lining the pier. A strong headwind limited my mileage to 50 kilometers; I tracked down Margaret at her home in Paekakariki. Known to have the biggest heart in town, she took me in for the night. Her place was comforting, like the smell of Mrs. Grass's soup.
Margaret is 77 years old and lives with her American Labrador, Finn. "He's got a big head, that's why I know he's an American lab," she said.
Margaret talked about church, living by the sea, her husband and, of course, Finn. "He turned 12 last week," she said, setting the empty mixing bowl down on the floor for Finn. It seemed like such a normal thing, like giving a child a cake beater.
"I'm better at throwing together a fruitcake, but this is for the children at church," said Margaret. "I'm making it a day ahead; if I mess up I have time to try again."
Margaret had gray, curly hair, purple sweatpants and a collared orange shirt that was fraying in the back. She was a dedicated recycler with a teacup of eggshells on the kitchen windowsill and glass bottles full of water scattered around the house. She also had a wonderful garden; her backyard full of lemon trees, grapefruit, ugli fruit and flowers.
A widow for seven years, Margaret talked freely about her husband. "He was in the service and injured," she said. Her husband initially suffered a superficial leg wound. "When they sent him back to service, people from the small town wrote the Queen Mother and said they felt it unfair to send an injured man back to battle," said Margaret. Her husband was more seriously injured on D-Day when he took artillery to the back. "He spend months in the hospital," she said. Finally discharged, the couple moved to New Zealand so her husband could work as a carpenter. "He ended up building huge buildings with cement block. "It's not exactly what he wanted to do, but we got along."
In his mid-70s, Margaret's husband had a severe fall while climbing a ladder to their second floor. "Doctors said he fractured his head in three places," she said. Margaret cared for her husband at home. "I had a nurse come in and help me."
"One day we were lifting him out of bed and the nurse had him piggyback, and he looked over and winked at me," said Margaret. She said she was a little flustered, thinking he was getting chummy with the nurse. "Then he rested his head and the nurse gently said 'Margaret, he's gone.'"
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Found Kurt in Christchurch. He hailed from Madison. Was with the military and in New Zealand for a month. Tough assignment. |
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Sunday, December 19, ARROWTOWN, NEW ZEALAND
Arrowtown is an old gold mining town surrounded by mountains. The Main Street is about 10 blocks long and made up of shops resembling buildings from the miner's heyday in the 1860s.
A candy store, This Remarkable Sweet House, was open early. Shelves that stretched to the ceiling were covered with colorful jars of candy. Rum balls, rhubarb and custard pips, sarsaparilla drops, pink smokers, sharp red bottles of Dracula’s milk and chocolate hokey pokey which was honeycomb covered with chocolate. "Lots of memories for adults and children," said Mimmi busy making fudge behind the counter.
THE GOLD SECRET...
In 1862, miners Thomas Arthur and Harry Redfern harvested several pounds of gold with a butcher’s knife in Arrowtown. The pair agreed to keep it a secret. Within two months, word was out and diggers were coming from all over the world. In the second half of the 19th century, 10,000 Chinese men arrived in Arrowtown to search for gold. They brought with them the opium trade.
It had to have been the drugs that spurred the Wallenda-style entertainment: The Wonderful Performing Fleas. Black and white posters screamed "MARVELOUS PERFORMANCES" and pictured sword fighting fleas playing leap frog, and manning a chariot with a whip.
"We practice no deception - every item of this act performed or we will forfeit $50 to the Charities."
"Do not let the small charge of admission detour you from seeing these WONDERFULLY EDUCATED FLEAS."
UPDATES...
- I'm earning my street cred; managing well; however, on a bike with limited gear. Marcello from Sport Cycle in Rotorua is a Kiwi transplant who once hailed from Madison. "So you're from the mistake by the lake," he said, referencing Milwaukee.
Marcello lived in New Zealand going on 12 years. He visited and stayed, lured by the bike shop, liberal vacation, sound health insurance and economic stability.
Marcello listened to my adventures, noted the biker in me, my fingernails black with chain schmutz. He also advised I treat my luggage situation with a good dose of "wait and see."
Making me feel at home, Marcello reached out and set me up with a series of Allen wrenches, should I encounter a bike-repair emergency. He also brought out a pair of used bicycle shoes. "Some guy was going to throw these away. They've been sitting in back for a while; I think they're your size."
Tools and shoes - in my low-maintenance lifestyle it felt like he had given me a ring.
- Rotorua postal delivery woman Diane took me in Wednesday night. She lived with her son Jackson, 7, and husband Paul. She volunteered to drive me to the Rotorua airport Saturday at 5:30 a.m. It was her day off.
Diane was a spitfire and 35-years-old when she had Jackson. "I was ready for him by then," she explained with the rasp of someone whose friend in youth was "Par-tee". "Named him after Michael Jackson," she said of her son. "I know all the moves."
Diane knew my name, but constantly referred to me as Buddy. It took me a while before I realized she was talking to me.
TEMPLETON..
Jeannie and Sing literally pulled me off the street Monday evening in Templeton. It was past 7:30 p.m. and I was weary and still tracking down a place to stay. I stopped the couple on their bikes to ask for directions; they adopted me on the spot. The pair were originally from Malaysia; they lived in New Zealand since 2002 with their quiet daughter Rachel, 15, a self-proclaimed bookworm, and caffeinated son Josh, 13.
"My room has been declared a disaster zone and is totally off limits," said Josh setting his boundaries early.
After an hour and a half of get-to-know-you conversation I retired to my bedroom - a mattress with a three inch cushion on the living room floor. Sleep was like a 10-hour coma.
Monday, December 20, 2010
December 18 - Picture Update
Dec. 18 Saturday, Rotorua, New Zealand

Dec. 18 Saturday, Rotorua, NZ -
Flying from Rotorua to the South Island and Queenstown; however, fog has "socked us in."
With the delay, the airline opts to put passengers on a bus to the Auckland airport. "It's only a two-and-a-half hour ride and you'll have heaps of time to make your flight," said the agent at the counter.
The bus ride lets me catch up on the newspaper; nice representation from the States as a Wisconsin postman has made the news in New Zealand with his wacky naked delivery.
A bus ride later, as I'm flying over the South Island, I can see why everybody says the visit will be worth it.
Mountains and hills of green; picture Julie Andrews and the Sound of Music. The small airport in Queenstown is on the edge of a very rural community. Crystal blue lakes surrounded by green hills and mountains, their peaks trimmed with white clouds.
Queenstown is a tourist hotspot; think the Streets of San Francisco swallowing the Wisconsin Dells. It's touted as the Adventure Capital of New Zealand. Everything has an edge and Queenstown is looking to push you over it; skydiving, bungee jumping, whitewater rafting and zip line cables that clip along the treetops.
I got a bit of a feel for the area from Dwayne. The 20-something attendant at the local backpacker's hostel looked like he could be on the cover of a Harlequin romance; short, curly hair, a Disney-prince jaw line and a cleft in his chin that resembled a baby's butt. Our conversation ran the gamut from biking and travel, to the States. On a scale of one to Justin Bieber, Dwayne put the Bieber to shame.
I asked about neighboring Arrowtown. Dwayne said it was about 30 minutes north by bus. A quiet town of 5,000 with a historical society, shops and carriage rides. I thought it sounded great."Yeah, it's where my parents like to go," said Dwayne. I thought I'd forgive him that one. Then Dwayne referred me to another youth hostel. "This one gets kind of loud; I think you would be more comfortable on the other end of town." I felt like he was sending me and my bike to the old spokes home.
At that point I was done with Dwayne - he was losing his muchness.
KEITH & MARGARET...
Retired minister Keith Robertson and his wife, Margaret, took me in for the night. The pair were in their 80s; retired teachers, married 55 years. When life became boring, Keith would opt to get another college degree. He had four; his tendency was history. Margaret was hard of hearing, and that's being nice.
The two had chairs set in the living room; think Archie and Edith Bunker. His was oversized compared to the rest of the furniture - plush. A briefcase and Atlas were within reach.
Margaret's chair matched the rest of the furniture. She had a cushioned backrest and a colorful, striped afghan thrown over the top of the chair. A cardboard box filled with magazines and Sudoku puzzles leaned against the side, an easy grab.
It was like staying with your grandparents; five bookshelves, rabbit ears on the television, and lots of short, barking conversation. "Keith William," yelled Margaret. "I have to call him Keith William to get his attention..." And within that brief moment, Margaret lost her train of thought. "Crumbs.... it must not have been important." With that, she doppled off to muss about the kitchen, her slippered feet shuffling along the linoleum floor.
The pair had longevity and an evident rhythm of relationship. Keith spoke knowledgeably about every topic, like a university professor. Margaret often and conveniently, took out her hearing aids.
Saturday, December 18, 2010
Dec. 17, Friday, Rotorua, NEW ZEALAND
Dec. 17, Friday, Rotorua, NEW ZEALAND - Spending a couple days in Rotorua before flying out to the south island and Queenstown.
Rotorua is a community of about 60,000 known for its thermal springs; a kind way of saying the whole city smells like feet.
The neighboring body of water is Sulphur Bay, a primary feeder for the olfactory system.
In the 1880s, crafty settlers decided to turn the thermal springs and accompanying stink into a tourist attraction and thus created the old Rotorua Bath House.
Wealthy people traveled 42 days by boat to get to the "Great South Seas Spa" to "take the cure."
The medical facility (a loosely used term) provided highly acidic baths warmed to steaming temperatures.
The thermal pools were hailed as cures for ailments like arthritis, eczema, epilepsy, and sexual impotence.
One popular treatment was vibratory massage. Strapped to a chair, a person was placed in a large bath and vigorously shaken. The treatment was said to cure constipation and obesity.
It took 50 years for people to realize the bath treatments did nothing. There was another minor issue - the building was falling apart.
Years of acidic steam and warm baths caused massive corrosion; plaster swelled, pipes leaked and in disgusting fashion the combination of moist air and hydrogen sulphide turned the white walls lead paint to a moldy black.
The Bath House, soon referred to as a "decayed monster", tanked.
Other venues occupied the building, including a Maori concert hall, Prisoners Aid and Rehabilitation Society, a nightclub and disco. (Doesn't this sound similar to the old Eagles Club / The Rave in Milwaukee.)
In the 1970s the city finally took over the facility and opened the Rotorua Museum of Art and History. Exhibits include traveling art displays and tours of the old Bath House.
RAINBOW SPRINGS...
The Kiwi like to tout the kiwi in New Zealand; the bird - not the fruit.
I managed a behind-the-scenes tour of Rainbow Springs; a public park and purpose-built kiwi hatchery that helps supplement the near-extinct population.
The hatchery spends $2,500 per egg to raise the bird to maturity.
Seriously - there is no cuteness factor with these birds.
Standing approximately 12-inches tall, they have a Gilligan-like erratic sense of movement. Long narrow bills, cone shaped body, and big feet; they would be the last one picked on the playground.
If the females had a say, they would have pulled the plug on the species centuries ago. Three words - eggs like cannonballs. It's one of the heaviest eggs in the world in relation to the bird's body weight. Putting it in people terms, this equals a woman birthing a 35-pound baby.
One of the other birds on display is the Kea; a parrot, protected by law, and many wonder why. Similar to a destructive teen, a gang of birds can pick apart and destroy a car in less time than it takes to complete a Sunday service.
At Rainbow Spring, Jenny the Kea was on display. Dull gray feathers, a good mimic, and Houdini-like skills. Keepers had to change to an electronic entry system after Jenny picked the lock on her cage and escaped.
As part of the breeding process, the sanctuary introduced two males to Jenny. They were found dead the next morning and not from exhaustion, nor with smiles on their face.
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Monday, Dec. 13, Te Kuhai, New Zealand

BAGGAGE UPDATE...
Today's marks one week since I've seen my gear. I've dubbed the lost luggage Baby Jessica - similar to the 1987 situation in Midland, Texas. I fear my gear has fallen down the well of lost luggage and I'm waiting for its rescue.
E-mails from a newly assigned specialized search agent with the airline leave me with flagging hope as each memo continues the drumbeat of bad news.
Mon. Dec. 13, Te Kuhai, NEW ZEALAND - Paul Christensen lives on a small family farm about 10 miles outside Hamilton.
His wife Roz did say it was okay to bring me home and son, Drew, 9, said my visit "made them clean house."
The Christensen's felt like instant family.
Along with precocious young Drew, there was Ryan, 14, an avid bicyclist, talented soccer player and a young man with genuine hospitality and manners; not something that would impress the 'tween girls just yet, but it sure did make his parents proud.
Ryan was a true gentleman.
Nicole, 20, was the hard-working daughter who was debating a career with the police or health care.
We all found common ground within minutes of my arrival while discussing musical tastes like Pink, Katy Perry and Nicole's favorite, Justin Bieber.
"I can't stand him," said Nicole, who tempted whiplash as she flung her head to the side mocking Bieber's hair toss.
We dined outdoors on the back patio as Paul barbecued chicken kabobs and steak on the grill. Roz laid out a decorative salad, potatoes, meringue with strawberries and ice cream for dessert.
We managed a gender-specific game of soccer after dinner. Drew soon jumped ship on the boy's team and then gravitated to whichever side was winning.
The game was soon replaced by an evening visit to all the animals. Roz and family used to run a petting zoo and they still owned a small pony, chickens, and a black bull.
The Christensen's were a unique group. Obviously tight knit and helpful, they jumped in the mix upon hearing my luggage fiasco and made it a team effort to at least get to the bottom of the situation.
It was an impressive attempt - two phones working, Ryan monitoring the 'on-hold music' as Roz pushed to speak to a supervisor on another line.
This whole process has really become a big time suck, and now.... it's making my teeth hurt.
The next morning we were back at it; the Christensen's working behind the scenes as I relayed my case to yet another clerk based in India.
It was like the Amazing Race and we were in it to win it.
Ryan filled my water bottles and packed my maps in plastic bags. Roz cobbled together a bag of snacks including two oranges, some granola bars and fruit snacks and Paul found some spare tools in case I suffered a bike breakdown.
I can usually manage a crabby hope in these situations, but lately I've just felt crummy.
The Christensen's warmth and cooperative effort made me feel I'm not in this alone.
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Picture Treats
Here's a view outside of my bedroom window on Tuesday morning.
Sunday, Dec. 12: TE KAUWHATA, NEW ZEALAND

Dec. 12, Sunday TE KAUWHATA - Started the day at 4 a.m. with jet lag and little sleep but was determined to pick up some biking miles and drilled south to Hamilton - a distance of 95 kilometers.
Made it as far as Te Kauwhata and met Linda Plant, the minister at the local Presbyterian church. Her salt-and-pepper hair was cropped short. She wore thin rectangular glasses with a partial red frame and was relaxed about everything ... including housework.
Linda outright hated housework; she had a 'what-you-see-is-what-you-get' attitude and welcomed me into her home with open arms.
Her three children were grown and out of the home, her parents lived in town and all were coming over that evening for tea - which smelled a lot like dinner.
The buffet-style meal ran the gamut from sizable cuts of fish, hearty shrimp, rolls, potato salad, and greens.
We sat out back at the picnic table, fed our hunger and took turns dousing ourselves in spray to try and fight off the mosquitoes.
The next morning, Linda and I had more time to chat about New Zealand, the trends, culture and food.
It was then she made me try Marmite. "It's a spread you put on bread or toast," she said.
Marmite looked a lot like chocolate spread or prune butter. "You have to spread it on very thin," said Linda.
The Marmite label read, 'New Zealand's original yeast spread. Meat free product.'
The name sounded like a vermin; something run over with your car or found dead in a trap in the basement.
I tried it with mature spirit and ate the rest out of politeness. I'm sure it would have been inappropriate to yak at the table and use a napkin to wipe Marmite off my tongue.
"It's an acquired taste," said Linda.
With watery eyes I changed topics to the Maori culture.
Linda said the natives in New Zealand, especially the women, demand respect. Mary, a long-time Maori woman in Te Kauwhata, went to the hometown grocery store that was recently purchased by some people from India. Her children brought home ice cream cones and Mary thought the servings were less than adequate.
A large woman, Mary stormed the store like a bulldozer, strongly lectured the owners about their lack of respect for the Maori and then pushed herself behind the icebox, flipped the lid and served up healthy Eiffel-Tower scoops to the children.
Those kids always got their money's worth after that.
LIGHT THOUGHTS...
The roads in New Zealand have already done a number on my wheels. I'm riding on a two-inch gash in my back tire.
I haven't had a blowout yet, but the meaty gravel covered with a thin spray of black tar is chomping at the bit.
I try to ride or at least 'think' light. I channel an elephant in a pink tutu gliding over a surface of balloons.
The concentrated attempt is short lived and I soon fall back into my pattern of stone on fencepost, dragging my dinosaur tail of supplies.
My rucksack now consists of a garbage bag and a colorful array of bungee cords.
I feel I'm getting closer to earning my scout badge for 'successful transient.'
THE CHRISTENSENS...
I meet Frank at his bicycle shop in Puhete, on the north end of Hamilton.
We work on a new rear tire and bicycle pump since mine seems shot.
Outside the shop, while working on my tire, I chat it up with Paul Christensen. He's stopped to retrieve his bike.
We talk about my tour, the weather, and I quick hop in side to settle my bill with Frank.
Back outside, Paul is waiting. "I called my wife and she said it was okay if I brought you home."
It was the worst pick-up line I'd ever heard.